The Ubiquitous Trench
This time of year I am reminded of the many seasons I attended fashion weeks in New York, Milan and Paris and the anxiety of what to pack for the road. Editing down my clothes and shoes to 1 suitcase for 2+ weeks had to cover cold mornings, late summer heat, rain, waiting to get into shows in freezing cold only to find an unbearably steamy venue with no ventilation and hot lights... Layers were a must and my go-to solution for the varied weather patterns was the humble trench. I venture to say there is no one coat that is more all purpose and seasonless and chic than the perfect trench coat. So hear me out!
The early iteration of the trench was not designed for use during WWII as some believe, though it did take its name from those muddy battles of trench warfare. Two British brands, Burberry and Aquascutum, claim to have invented the trench in the 19th century, but the truth is it was a convergence of several innovations. First, chemist-then-clothier Charles Macintosh designed waterproof rubberized cotton military uniforms for the British officers in the mid 19th century, which is why you might hear a British person call their raincoat a “mac”. Shortly afterwards, Aquascutum (latin for water shield) brought early water-repellent outerwear to the gentry (according to the Smithsonian, these were notably “less stinky” than earlier versions). Burberry came on the scene in 1879, when Thomas Burberry invented gabardine fabric with the goal of protecting the everyday person from British weather and used it to create a lighter weight alternative to heavy wool “greatcoats”. Burberry’s claim to the trench coat, however, comes from their 1901 patent with the British army which led to their design becoming an essential and iconic part of their military uniform.
The civilian-ization of trenches was in part due to the fact that many veterans kept their coats after WWII, integrating them into their post-war wardrobes. Though the brand of origin is disputed, Burberry took the ball and ran with it, becoming virtually synonymous with the khaki trench as we know it. Their signature (trademarked!) plaid lining, introduced in the 1920s, quickly became a status symbol in its own right and a precursor for modern branding. The plaid was as recognizable then as the logos of major luxury fashion houses are now. Fun fact: Believe it or not Burberry had one day delivery in 1934 in London!! Who knew!
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The trench to this day is virtually the “same as it ever was” 100 years ago. The DNA of the trench coat is so strong that even when brilliant and creative minds wave their magic wands designing their next collections, the result is always a “trench look”. There seems to be no end to the obsession of the iconic silhouette from fast fashion to couture.
We can not forget the contributions of the trench in movies. Somehow the trench has the transformational effect that adds depth and urban sophistication to an array of characters.
Traits of a traditional trench:
1. Double breasted with ten buttons - seems like a zillion
2. Wide lapels that fold and button across the chest
3. Storm flap to secure the closure at the neck
4. Waist belt to secure the wrap of the coat with D rings to hang equipment
5. Deep pockets to keep maps and documents dry
6. Epaulets noting the rank of the soldier and to harness guns with cross body straps
7. Collars with extra buttons and hooks to fasten and protect the neck
8. High back vent to allow for ease walking and riding motorbikes
9. Storm Shield across the back shoulders for extra protection
10. Khaki color to camouflage amid the dust and dirt of ground warfare
I am NOT embarrassed to say I have at least seven trenches in my attic - some khaki and some black. Veronique Branquinho, Prada, Dries Van Noten, Narciso Rodriguez, Valentino and two Uniqlos. I could wax poetic about each one but I won’t. I propose that the trench is a wise investment to be included in all sustainable wardrobes and worth every penny if you want to splurge. That said, I find quite a few classic and sturdy London Fog trenches at thrift stores, so splurging isn’t always necessary to get a good quality piece. A soak in the tub with some oxyclean does wonders. And of course, when buttons or belts get lost, it’s time to think outside the box to keep your trench in play. A brown leather belt from Goodwill and new sparkly buttons (wink wink) can make the ubiquitous trench yours and yours alone!
Xxxsasha
Xxxsasha
Me in my Uniqlo trench with quilted lining with Gretchen Gunlocke Fenton from our Glamour days.