If this sounds like a Nancy Drew Mystery reference, it is!
While this newsletter is not a classic page-turner, I am going to weigh in on the pros and a few cons of short sleeve shirts and the mystery surrounding the fact that short sleeve collared button-front shirts did not become mainstream until the early 20th century!
According to a few sources, the game of tennis gets the credit for the short sleeve or “half sleeve” shirt, which players began to wear in the 1920s to keep cool in warm weather and gain mobility.
Subsequently, short sleeve shirts and jackets on men became a new silhouette in wartime. During World War II, England’s Royal Air Force men’s uniforms had army-issued variations for colonial locations such as India, Burma, and South Africa. The rationing of fabric (while men were at war, industries slowed down and supplies were scarce) may have been an additional factor in the design of the uniforms.
The Women’s Army Corps, or WAC, uniforms evolved to a more fitted silhouette. The men’s uniforms were tailored for women’s bodies, with long sleeves that could be folded with specific detailed instructions not to show the underside of the fabric while giving the impression of short sleeves.
(Top Left) Seth Cohen, The OC; (Top Right) NASA; (Bottom Left) Dwight, The Office; (Bottom Right) Willem de Kooning
Office culture became more relaxed allowing a short sleeve and no jacket option. Iconic TV characters deliberately defined their characters in short sleeve shirts — a kind of average working class male vibe. Artists adopted short sleeves to avoid dirtying cuffs.
Women joining the workforce post war wore feminine silhouettes in drapey fabric designed to highlight curves with darts and back seams, covered buttons and rounded collars. Now, decades later, women have lots of options including the classic oxford for a boyish and androgynous look. The fact is, the uniform-style shirts generated in wartime are the gift that keeps on giving for all — a staple in most closets whether they are oversized or fitted.
Some inspo from the men's runway: Gucci, Hermés, Armani
As I sign off, take a look at these Hawaiian shirts. Which would you buy if you were or are in the market for one?
Balenciaga $1,350.00 Old Navy $26.99